Bear Kodiak Longbow Mid-Latter 50s

[Bisch]

65" unstrung

In this pic, when the bow is strung, the string should be on the opposite side than where the measuring tape is!

Bisch

[Restless]

its not strung thats backset

[Dkincaid]

I think bish just meant if it were strung the string would be on the opposite side of the tape

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[Restless]

roger

[60 Deluxe]

How about when strung properly, the bow data written on the riser should be on the left.

[Briar Friar]

That's a bear polar model here's some good information on them.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=print_topic;f=14;t=003321

Thank you! I gather its a '54 Polar. More mid and less latter 50's. I bought it as a beater bow to learn to shoot a longbow. This is my first longbow. It seems that dual shelved bows arent very popular. Bear makes a modern dual shelved bow but in the Phoenix youth model. As an ambidextrous novice archer this dual shelved beast is much more desireable for learning than owning two centercut longbows (and as I gather and could be disputed more condusive to developing EFOC arrows).

Please pardon my novice bow photography.

[Briar Friar]

Just my .02 here bud, but those linear cracks in the glass would have me a little concerned about shooting it. Ecspecially the ones from the tip down and through the belly. Neat Bows, and I think most would be surprised about the performance they can give. I love my Dual Shelf Polar. Good Luck

Thank you for your concern. Is there any way to remedy those linear cracks and/or know someone who does reparations?...in central Texas.

Its is going to get shot as soon as I get a proper string.

[Dry Bones]

Unfortunately there is only one guy I know that does some refinish work. He is no magician, but very good. If those cracks are through the glass there is not much that can be done. If they are just superficial, and a lot of bows are, then it will be fine. Make sure you shoot arrows that are not to light for the bow. At 49 lbs try to shoot at least 450 grains of total arrow weight. I have lost a GOOD bow due to shooting an arrow that was not right for an older bow when I first started. The top limb de-laminated, basically like a dry fire. Hard lesson learned, not all advice is good.

[Briar Friar]

RMS sent a 16 strand B50 flemish twist. I strung day before yesterday and been letting the string stretch. Shot yesterday and today. I set brace at 8" before shooting today and it settled to 7 1/2" after 15-20 arrows.

This bow has no emblems on the belly. It looks like the "Polar" emblem had been on the upoer limb on the belly. A patent emblem is on the lower limb back and a small (quarter sized) Bear Archery emblem in the upper limb back. I havent set a knocking point or installed string silencers. There is quite a bit of bow reverberation after the shots. Just shooting. Im happy with (a few) pie plate sized kill box hits at fifteen yards.

[Briar Friar]

Lower limb back patent emblem

[Briar Friar]

Upper limb back Bear emblem scratched off

[Briar Friar]

Upper limb belly

[Briar Friar]

Lower limb belly

The tiller seems to be greater on the upper riser fade than on the lower riser fade. Not sure if this is positive or negative tiller. Shooting with full length Beman Centershot 400s with 75gr brass inserts and 145gr field points.

[Restless]

the Tiller is correct it was Know as "chesty" back in the day

[TejasNW]

Respectfully, let me ask about your string.

I think the terminology is confused, and from the pictures, it appears your bow is strung "backwards". The Back of the bow traditionally refers to the side that faces the target. Let's call that side A for this discussion. The belly is the side of the bow that faces the shooter. Call it side B. The string should run on side B (shooter's side, or belly).

Normally the stickers, emblems, and data are on the belly side, side B, facing the shooter as one draws. In your later photos it looks like the bow is strung, but the stickers, side B, are facing the camera; and I don't see a string. If so, then you are strung backwards. It is a common mistake, especially with bows that have such drastic backset or reflex.

You mentioned reverberation. The bow is flexing against its glue joints and is tillered to unspring in a different direction. This may be the cause of your excess vibration.

If I am reading your descriptions incorrectly, accept my apologies. I am work and don't have a lot of time. But you want to make sure an older bow like that is not shot backwards. It could shorten the usable life of your bow. Double check, just to be sure.