Perplexed - Tuning thoughts?

[Bisch]

Well, there you go. I learned something today. I thought FOC was the percentage of weight in the front half of the arrow.

Thanks for the correction. I’m still new to the particulars and physics, so bear with me

No problem! You certainly are not the first to figure it that way. I know from experience many moons ago!!!

Bisch

[DRT]

I let the 3rivers spine calculator do it for me. I sucked at physics.

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[Junkers88]

I let the 3rivers spine calculator do it for me. I sucked at physics.

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Yep.. No math in public for me, I just embarrass myself.

[Brandon M.]

I let the 3rivers spine calculator do it for me. I sucked at physics.

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I used to do the same but for me personally it seems to be way off.

[DRT]

It didn't work for me with the Big Jim. Recurve bows it has thus far. Regardless though if you put your arrow specs in it will calculate the numbers relative to what you use.


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[Bisch]

It didn't work for me with the Big Jim. Recurve bows it has thus far. Regardless though if you put your arrow specs in it will calculate the numbers relative to what you use.


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Not necessarily true. I don’t use 3Rivers calculator, but I do use the Stu Miller calculator. The one I use has a Personal Form Factor (PFF). The PFF is designed so that you can take an arrow that is known to you thru other forms of tuning to be well tuned for you, put that arrow info into the calculator, and then “adjust” the calculator to make that arrow right for your set up. Without the PFF, the calculator would be worthless to me, as it always was way off till I got the PFF set for me!

Bisch


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[RickBarbee]

Not necessarily true. I don’t use 3Rivers calculator, but I do use the Stu Miller calculator. The one I use has a Personal Form Factor (PFF). The PFF is designed so that you can take an arrow that is known to you thru other forms of tuning to be well tuned for you, put that arrow info into the calculator, and then “adjust” the calculator to make that arrow right for your set up. Without the PFF, the calculator would be worthless to me, as it always was way off till I got the PFF set for me!

Bisch


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^^^^THIS^^^^

The very nature of any arrow calculator forces it to have to work from anchored centers to be accurate

Since we all hold the bow differently, and have other little differences from one shooter to another, that anchored center can be different from one shooter to another.

The Personal Form Factor (PFF) adjustment handles that very well.

Rick

[Brandon M.]

Not necessarily true. I don’t use 3Rivers calculator, but I do use the Stu Miller calculator. The one I use has a Personal Form Factor (PFF). The PFF is designed so that you can take an arrow that is known to you thru other forms of tuning to be well tuned for you, put that arrow info into the calculator, and then “adjust” the calculator to make that arrow right for your set up. Without the PFF, the calculator would be worthless to me, as it always was way off till I got the PFF set for me!

Bisch


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Once you get your PFF set is that specific to that bow or to the shooter. For example if I took the data from the above recurve and arrow setup which I feel are very closely matched and got a PFF could I then use that to work on one of my longbow setups?

[DRT]

3 rivers has a place to put a personal form factor.
I wasn't saying choose an arrow based on it though.

I was just saying put in the numbers from the arrow you have and it will tell you what your gpp, and foc are.

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[DRT]

Ricks chart and 3rivers give me the same numbers. I have no clue how to use the personal adjustment factor deals. Recently I've gained some weight so I may be a plus size.[emoji4]

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[Bisch]

Once you get your PFF set is that specific to that bow or to the shooter. For example if I took the data from the above recurve and arrow setup which I feel are very closely matched and got a PFF could I then use that to work on one of my longbow setups?

For me, it does work like that. Now that I have the PFF set, I can put just about any bow and arrow combo I want into the calculator, and it gives me something I can work with. Not necessarily exact, but close enough that all I have to do is fine tune from that point.

Also, any calculator is only as good as this information that is put into it. You need precisely correct input to get real close results! If anything is even just a little off, it will skew your results.

Bisch


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[Bisch]

Perplexed - Tuning thoughts?

Ricks chart and 3rivers give me the same numbers. I have no clue how to use the personal adjustment factor deals. Recently I've gained some weight so I may be a plus size.[emoji4]

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Gary, the PFF is there to taylor the calculator to you! You have to be able to tune in other ways before you can use it. For example: if you have a bow and arrow set up that you know is well tuned because you did the tuning by bareshaft or paper tuning (the way we all did it before calculators), you can then input your bow and arrow info into the calculator. Chances are that they will not match up close enough for you to be tuned. (The calculator says the bow and arrow should be within 2# of each other.)

At this point you are ready to trash the calculator as unreliable because you know that your setup is tuned, but the calculator says it is not. When the calculators first came out, there was no PFF, and they just would not work for me.

So, once you are at this point, with a setup you know is tuned, but the calculator is saying is not there yet, you go to the PFF. Idk how 3Rivers works, but on Stu Miller’s calculator, you can input numbers from -15 to 15. You play with it till it makes the bow and arrow match, and that is your PFF.

Leave your PFF set to that number, and from them on (at least for me) when you enter new bow/arrow combos, the results will be real close to true.

Bisch


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[DRT]

I kinda figured that but I've just gotten to the point my form is consistent enough to bare shaft. However with the recurves I've had matches as long as I put in the correct data. Seems string data, strike plate thickness and even bow brand can cause variations.
Example they don't list a Tall Tines so I used a BW PCH to check a couple. The 400 spine black eagles 30.25" with 175 up front worked well.
But if I had those arrows set up i could use the calculator, input the bow data or not, put in my arrow data and it will tell me all the fancy numbers for my arrows like FOC. If I've put in my bow info the gpp will be listed as well.
Now that may or may not give a person an arrow that is actually spines well for how they shoot but it will give them the calculations for their arrow.


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[DRT]

Also I've got to get a longbow that will work for me. I could shoot the Big Jim but could not quiet it enough to suite me. I will get one cut 1/8th past center and hope I can easily get it tuned and quiet.
There is a long learning curve to this stuff and although it can be humbling when you get it right and it does work it's elating.

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[Bisch]

Perplexed - Tuning thoughts?

If your bow is not in the list by brand, there should be a selection for “Generic Recurve” or Generic R/D Longbow”, or something close to that. That is what I use because Sarrels bows are not on the list either.

Bisch


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