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broadhead recomendation

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    broadhead recomendation

    looking for recommendations on a good cut on contact broadhead my 11 year old is going after her first dear with her bow and want to make sure I set her up as based I can for both good blood trail and penetration. I bought her some deadringer freak nasty extreams that can be used mechanical or cut on contact. Does anyone have experience with this broadhead in the cut on contact mode. Do not want to have her get a good shoot but have trouble with the broadhead thanks in advance

    #2
    magnus stinger, slick trick, muzzy trocar

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      #3
      Slick Trick Viper.
      My nephew has been using lately. He is 14 but small and only pulls around 35lbs. Shot several hogs, a texas dall and a mature whitetail buck.

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        #4
        thanks

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          #5
          Most all the decent broadheads will be fine. I think shot placement is most important over anything else. I have killed several deer with cheap Allen broadheads from Wal Mart.

          but I shoot PX2's

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            #6
            she knows where to place the arrow both on foam and rifle hunting just hope she can control the rush when it comes down to it with her bow

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              #7
              This

              Originally posted by Kenner97 View Post
              Slick Trick Viper.
              My nephew has been using lately. He is 14 but small and only pulls around 35lbs. Shot several hogs, a texas dall and a mature whitetail buck.
              Cut on contact best for low poundage with two holes being the goal IMHO. Magnus makes some fine ones too that have served me extremely well.
              Get her to shoot the chosen broadhead a few times, accuracy kills. Have fun!

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                #8
                went ahead and bought her some magnus stinger's and I will just give the dead ringers a try for me

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                  #9
                  I use the cheapest ones I can find at Academy. They all pretty good nowadays.

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                    #10
                    With out know her set up I’m going to wing it. When low draw weight is in play then we have to look at a lot of variables. And even if you have an arrow you think is the best it still can fail.

                    Low draw weight means you need a heavier arrow. I would look at 10 gr per lb minimum. That means she must get close. And that may be 10 yards.

                    Never look at a mechanical head. Yes I know everyone wants to say I’ve done it. Ok. But your trying to set up an arrow with the least amount of failure problems. Like at cut on contacts. This is heads that the blade is the tip. Look at two blades with bleeders. Stingers are good for this.

                    Build the arrow with foc. Short arrows are not as stable. This is why for the foc and it imprices penetration.

                    Last she has to practice and tuning is very important. This is also very hard for kids. But if the arrow hits an animal and the nock is not in line with the tip it Impedes penetration. And with low draw weight it’s even worse.

                    Good luck and happy hunting

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                      #11
                      thanks for the info

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                        #12
                        2 Blade Single Bevel

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                          #13
                          NAP Hellrazor

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                            #14
                            these are pretty wicked and very tough I haven't broken one yet.
                            Attached Files

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                              #15

                              this is what I went with 100 grain she is pulling 35 pounds right now trying to get her up to 40 she has a 24 inch draw we should be right around 30 on the kinetic energy and going to try and keep her within 15 yards.
                              Last edited by lk05077; 08-01-2018, 07:20 AM.

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