Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

tuning help needed

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    tuning help needed

    Ok so I picked up my bow from a cable replacement on friday and on my third shot I got a perfect robin hood so I assumed all was good, WRONG! I assumed my bow would still be good cause it was putting arrows where I wanted it and I had my broad heads tuned right before. IE perfect shot placement on a hog in april. Well last night i missed a hog I should have smoked at 10 yds then the one I shot wasn't hit at my point of aim. So this morning I got out and shot field points VS broad heads and found that now my broad heads are down 1" and right 1/2-1" so I did my usual move the rest to the field points and took a shot with a field point then aimed at the nock of the field point and cut that arrows nock and tail end with the broad head but they have two different points of impact. I'm thinking I went wrong aiming at the nock instead of prior point of aim however I was worried i might have drifted while aiming. Either way the arrows have two different trajectories. One straight in contact and one nose down matching the angle I was standing above the target. I'm lost and i need help not to mention burning through arrows. before I go buy new arrows and start from scratch I need some wisdom. All testing/tuning was done at about 10 YDS with a Bowtech insanity at 61# with QAD HDx and beaman ICS hunters 340 spine cut to 27 1/2 tipped with 100gr. Razor tricks. I would almost rather get my bow back shooting bullets and go to a mechanical that flys perfect with my field points but I cant just roll over. I just dont get it perfect flight with field points I assumed meant a good clean tune.

    #2
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APVIK7kDNDw&feature=related"]Paper Tuning with the OverDrive Binary Cam System - YouTube[/ame]
    Hope this helps!

    Comment


      #3
      there is a video Bowtech posted on their facebook page on tuning that bow.
      Leave center shot set in the center "DO NOT MOVE REST!!!"
      check it out, good vid with a neat tip



      never mind, got beat to it

      Comment


        #4
        Well thats a total pain in the *** to have to run back n fourth to a press to adjust center shot!

        Comment


          #5
          Ya not to mention I don't have press. Guess I'm going to go lean on the bow shop and buy a dozen more arrows.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by back-woods-boy View Post
            Ya not to mention I don't have press. Guess I'm going to go lean on the bow shop and buy a dozen more arrows.
            I can see the benifit. You keep the centershot absolute to center of the riser that way. I think....

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Ragin' View Post
              I can see the benifit. You keep the centershot absolute to center of the riser that way. I think....
              Assuming shooter isn't pulling string left/right of a straight line eliminating horizontal nock travel interference, harness tuning is the proper way to paper tune an overdrive binary.
              If a shooter does pull string left/right of straight line, false reads occur.
              Once bullet holes occur, (with rest at measured CS,) brosdhead tuning still requires slight rest movements.

              Comment


                #8
                My deal is with there method you inducing cam lean even if it's minimal. PROBLEM SOLVED! Bought a pack of grim reapers. I'm confident enough in my shot placement to shoot a mechanical.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by back-woods-boy View Post
                  My deal is with there method you inducing cam lean even if it's minimal.
                  I think you would actually be correcting the cam lean.

                  When I bought my Insanity, the tech checked the cams with a laser to see if there was any cam lean.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by back-woods-boy View Post
                    My deal is with there method you inducing cam lean even if it's minimal. PROBLEM SOLVED! Bought a pack of grim reapers. I'm confident enough in my shot placement to shoot a mechanical.
                    Originally posted by AlaskaFlyerFan View Post
                    I think you would actually be correcting the cam lean.

                    When I bought my Insanity, the tech checked the cams with a laser to see if there was any cam lean.
                    There will be cam lean at brace.(has to be to accomodate cable torque)
                    Harness tuning eliminates cam lean at full draw.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      We checked for lean and there was none. Either way I cam home and the GRs shot with my field points which kinda sucks cause I like the slick tricks but I hear ton of good about the GRs and I know I can put my field points where I want em. I may decide to go back and If that's the case I will try the cable adjustment.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        When you get a cable replaced you have to shoot it around 100 shots to break in the cable.
                        That could be the problem.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Great video. Have to stay opened mined with archery, in order to learn new things.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X