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    Flat shelf??

    Recently bought a tristate jaguar. It's an older bow with a flat shelf. My buddy is telling me that new bows have sloped shelves because these flat shelves cause arrow flight issues. I'm a complete rookie, so I wanted to know if there is any truth to that.

    Thanks

    #2
    In my opinion a radiused shelf is easier to tune with out having to do anything. On a flat shelf you can cut a small square of leather or something else and put it under your rug. You can also just shoot a flat shelf without problems if you choose

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      #3
      Less the arrow contacts the bow the better. Rounded and feathered to center is how I was taught to cut arrow passes.

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        #4
        Google some slo-mo vids on archers paradox, only the first couple inches of the shaft even touch the shelf when shot. Most hill bows have a flat shelf and can be shot very accurately, but to each his own

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          #5
          Most of my bows are radius cut, but I do have an older Pearson that has a long flat shelf. The Pearson I added a small piece of leather trimmed with a slope to the shelf.
          My Supermag has a slight radius, but not much, and I shoot straight off a flat leather strip on it. It is more sensitive to arrow spine and release but still shoots sweet.
          Either way will work, just pay close attention to arrow flight.

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            #6
            The more shelf the arrow contacts, the more noise it makes when drawing and the animal is more likely to hear it.

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              #7
              Lots of stick on rests available. I've used the Bear Weather Rest with excellent results.

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                #8
                Most of, if not all old Bear, Pearson, Wing bows had flat shelf's and thousands of animals were taken with them. I agree though, that a radiused shelf is easier to tune and produces less noise. I wouldn't worry too much. Just get it tuned and shoot it...A LOT!!!

                Doug Key

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Billy Shipp View Post
                  Lots of stick on rests available. I've used the Bear Weather Rest with excellent results.
                  A year or so ago I decided to put a feather rest on my recurve just to try it out. I found it to be more forgiving than the Velcro pad I was using so I left it on. It has held up very well - after thousands of arrows it shows no sign of wear. Because of the way it is beveled it also helps keep the arrow on the riser while hunting. Three Rivers sells them for about $15

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                    #10
                    Most older recurves had flat shelves.

                    This is due to the fact contrary to current days "traditionalists" most archers of that time period when archery was just called archery shot off of a rest.

                    Jerps arrow rest is a good idea or something that you can build up yourself made of moleskin or some other material.

                    If that particular bow is a longbow with a straight shelf it will not matter nearly as much than if it is a recurve with a much longer shelf.

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                      #11
                      Would the feather rest Jerp referenced be legal for the IBO trad tournament, coming up soon. Just realized that my old Pearson has a stick - on rubber arrow rest, which probably is not allowed. Original shelf is flat, and I was hoping to avoid filing and sanding a radius on it just for that shoot.

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                        #12
                        Split a piece of 3/8" dowel, and place one half of it under your shelf material at a 90 degree angle to the strike plate. Place it right over the deepest part of the grip.
                        Once you have it, cover the shelf & dowel with your material of choice.
                        This will work as good as any radius shelf out there, and is still considered as being shot off the shelf.

                        If you need something on the strike pate/sight window (unlikely) use a match stick, or a toothpick under the cover material.

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                        TT, a feather rest is still considered an elevated rest, and unless something has changed since the last time I checked, you will have to shoot in the RU class to use it.

                        Rick

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                          #13
                          Sounds good, Rick. Thanks.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by RickBarbee View Post
                            Split a piece of 3/8" dowel, and place one half of it under your shelf material at a 90 degree angle to the strike plate. Place it right over the deepest part of the grip.
                            Once you have it, cover the shelf & dowel with your material of choice.
                            This will work as good as any radius shelf out there, and is still considered as being shot off the shelf.

                            If you need something on the strike pate/sight window (unlikely) use a match stick, or a toothpick under the cover material.

                            ````````````````````````````
                            TT, a feather rest is still considered an elevated rest, and unless something has changed since the last time I checked, you will have to shoot in the RU class to use it.

                            Rick
                            Put the split dowel piece on, covered with some hair-on cowhide, lowered the knock knot a few twists: bingo. Virtually no difference in arrow flight or impact of arrows from 10 - 30 yards. And I feel much more traditional.

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                              #15
                              .

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