Tuning my new arrows – a few questions

[jerp]

I bought some Beman MFX Classics 500’s (The spine Bob recommended for that bow at my draw length) The break-off HIT inserts that came with them are 50 or 75 grain. I plan on using a 150 grain broadhead and I’m fletching them with three 5” shield cut feathers. My plan is to start out with them out full length, start tuning and trim ½” at a time till they fly right. My question is - what is the best way to temporarily glue in the insert so I can pull it out again before I trim the shaft? I was going to use just a dot of hot melt glue then heat the point a little if I need to pull it out. However Beman explicitly says hot glue is a bad idea because the heat can damage the carbon. Using Stu Miller’s calculator (thanks TxAg) I think 29 ½” is where I’ll end up but I don’t want to start out that short then find out they are too stiff. I’ve got a copy of the OL Adcock article and I plan on bare shaft tuning as well. How would you suggest I proceed?

[Bisch]

I have never used arrows with HIT inserts so I am of no help to you there. Good luck with your tuning though!

Bisch

[agtex42]

Jerp I'm using last year's MFX shafts with the HIT inserts. When I was doing my initial tuning I left the shafts full length to begin with and epoxied the inserts in place. My plan was to cut from nock end if I needed to make them any shorter. I setup two arrows bare and two arrows fletched for the tuning process and I was able to get mine to fly right simply by adjusting tip weight and no trimming was needed.

Cutting from the nock end isn't a bad deal, you just have to be willing to refletch as necessary. The use of wraps cuts down on your prep/finish time when doing it this way as well.

Just to give you a reference I'm pulling 45-46# at just under 29". My full length .500 MFX shafts fly great with 161 total grains of tip weight and one reflective wrap & (3) 4" feathers on the nock end.

[JTeLarkin08]

You cut them from the knock end is what I have heard jerP. I would put the 50gr insert on and then you can go with a heavier bh if u need to. I am shooting 50 gr insert and 190 gr tip.

[berettadave]

Jerp,

I put a piece of Saran wrap over the end of the insert and then pushed it into the shaft. It made it hold plenty tight for me to shoot my bag target and not lose it. I did this until I figured out what worked the best and then I epoxied the insert in with JB-Weld.

HTH
Dave

[TxAg]

You cut them from the knock end is what I have heard jerP. I would put the 50gr insert on and then you can go with a heavier bh if u need to. I am shooting 50 gr insert and 190 gr tip.

x2 I'd just cut from the nock end each time if you already have an idea of where you need to be.

Just for a point of reference, I use the full 75 grain insert so that I can shoot 125 grain heads. The 125 gr heads mean I can shoot a bunch of different broadheads and still shoot the same field tips. (I didn't want to buy a bunch of different weights).

For what it's worth, the calculator will help get you close but it's not exact. In the example I sent you, it show that my arrows are a bit underspined, but my bowyer told me that was ok since the Beman MFX are pretty thin....they actually spine a little stiffer.

[Mike Javi Cooper]

Jerp,

I put a piece of Saran wrap over the end of the insert and then pushed it into the shaft. It made it hold plenty tight for me to shoot my bag target and not lose it. I did this until I figured out what worked the best and then I epoxied the insert in with JB-Weld.

HTH
Dave

I've seen several people do this and it works.. When I shot the Axis arrows I used hot glue..

[BowBuddy]

I cut them from the nock end as well I draw 27" and my arrows fly great at 30" I shoot Easton Axis 340 with 100 grain inserts and 125 field points. Her is a video at around 15 yards. Explanation with the video, below. i like to adjust point weight, but bare shaft tuning always lead to a 30" arrow for me.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=2527780952983

I made a 17 yard indoor archery range in my apartment, I have not been shooting any in about 2 years, the bow I shoot is a 55# Black Widow PSA Recurve its length is 58". My arms are weak since I have not been shooting, I shoot instinctively(no sights) and since I am starting again I have changed how I grip the string and arrow from split fingered to putting all 3 fingers under the arrow. i also am canting the bow 45 degrees so I will be able to hunt out of ground blinds, tripods and tree stands. My alternative way of shooting was keeping the bow straight, but if sitting I could only draw the string until it hit my leg. But enjoy and learn if you would like!!

[jerp]

DUH! I didn't think about cutting them from the nock end - that would be a simple solution. I may try the Saran Wrap idea first. Thanks!

[BowBuddy]

The nock end works better