View Full Version : post your feeder design/pics....i need some ideas?

03-16-2007, 05:28 PM
gettin ready to make a few new feeders, any of yall have any pics/designs? thanks!

03-16-2007, 11:24 PM
i am building one as we speak out of a 95 gallon over pack i will post you a picture tomorrow

03-17-2007, 06:51 PM
here is a couple pictures. i have not put the timer on it yet.

03-17-2007, 07:44 PM
Looks good, Kevin! Why don't you leave it out front and I'll come by after dark while you're out on patrol and take it off your hands. LOL!

03-17-2007, 08:19 PM
come on gold. i guess you did not see the lock on in the magnolia tree.:)

plus with all those HIGH dollar leases you have why would you want my cheap feeder.:D

03-17-2007, 10:31 PM
Where do you get one of those over pack things? What are they used for?

03-18-2007, 12:18 AM
they are used to put a 55 gallon drum in when they spring a leak. as far as getting them i told a friend i need one and he got me two so i am not sure where to get them other tahn through him.

03-18-2007, 10:29 AM
my dad works in the oilfeild and got me a big ole drum from a chemical they used with a locking lid on it, we welded some pipe to the sides and i put an allseasons spinner on it and it is going to get its first feild test soon on our new lease. total i spent 129 and that was all on the spinner. its heavy duty , a little bit of a pian to carry around since it is so heavy but i hear they work great and looks like any other top of the line feeder out there and it was made in a garage by a bunch of rednecks:D

03-20-2007, 03:39 PM
found my pic of my home made protein feeder 85 barrel,conduit legs,sweeney tube,also put a galvanized lid(not shown) and used some old trampoline springs to hold it down,(mounted to top of barrell in pic)works great so far...


M Williams
03-20-2007, 07:35 PM
Whitetail, do u use uni-strut on the legs where the pipe sllides on?

03-20-2007, 08:31 PM
Here is one of our big ones. I hate cranking it up.

03-21-2007, 11:03 AM
Thats one hell of a feeder right there!!! The crank is the way to go!!-Mike-

03-21-2007, 07:11 PM
Don't ever drop a bag of corn in it though!:eek: :D

03-21-2007, 08:42 PM
Feathermax yes it's 3 pieces of uni -strut, only real expense was galvanized funnel and lid and the Sweeney tube system (50-75 more lbs) w/ sight glass and Krylon paint..WHEN I build my next 1 it will be with the same Sweeney tube system it's huge, freaked me out when it came in the box..Plus they don't charge for shipping..mmmmm..that's family run co.for ya.

M Williams
03-21-2007, 09:07 PM
***, thanks for the response! I can get my hands on uni-strut pretty easy

03-21-2007, 10:20 PM
need something let me know!:D

03-22-2007, 06:20 PM
I usually make smaller feeders out of the 15 & 30 gallon drums I find at transmission shops- they get their tranny fluid in them and will usually give them to me for FREE!! Woo Hoo! A lot of times I'll use a heavy-duty, but disposable, tin roast pan from the grocery store for a lid- they're cheap, easy o replace and work just fine when held down by a twist of bailing wire.

Otherwise I'll use a 50-gallon drum from wherever I can find them in good shape with a lid.

For leg attachments I'll buy the feeder leg mounting kit from Academy Sports for about $20, if I'm feeling lazy. Otherwise, I'll bend a 30-36" piece of 1"-1.25' thin-wall square tubing at about a 30-degree angle about 10-12" from one end of the tubing. Then I drill two holes so that I can bolt each length to my barrel. Then, for legs, I use the cheapest metal conduit I can find at Home Depot, that will fit relatively snugly over the leg brackets. Feeders inevitably have to be moved from time to time and big hogs damage the legs no matter what, so I might as well use legs that are pretty sturdy but cheap to replace.

For motors/timers I'm a die-hard "ON-Time" fan. I stick with the simple, mechanical "Classic Lifetime" unit because they hardly ever break and when they do I can fix them myself in a matter of minutes from parts that I get FREE from the company. We've rebuilt On-Time units that are YEARS old and the company has given us the parts without ANY questions EVERY time! Not, at all, my experience with ANY other company. Just my opinion.

Seems like everyone here has a pretty good system that works for them and that's what matters! :)


03-24-2007, 02:22 PM

This is the kind of feeder that I build it works really well.
It holds around 1200# large lid for easy filling. I use HCR timers with dayton motors with gate plate spin plates,
You sure don't have to fill it very often. Unless you feed like I do then its about every 6 or 7 weeks. LOL

Problem Child
03-24-2007, 11:58 PM
Moon, what are the measurements on that feeder?

Shorty Bang Bang
03-25-2007, 08:44 AM
I don't have any pics, but I have made several feeders using water well pressure tanks. I believe they are 110 or 120 gallon tanks and you can get them from water well service companies. The first one I made out of the tank I had replaced at my home. It worked great so I made some phone calls to get more tanks. Normally they will get a rust hole near the botton of the tank and all you have to do is cut them off near the rust hole and flip them over and mount leg brackets on them. They have a domed top so when you flip them over they have a natural funnel to them. The ones I have will hold 700 to 800 pounds of corn. You can use plywood for the lid or on mine I bought the 80 gallon barrel metal lids.

03-25-2007, 04:49 PM
I built mine to have all internal parts

Had some store bought legs laying around but they were a little weak for 85 gal drum with 500 pounds of corn.

So I welded some on my next one.


Seems to work! :D

03-25-2007, 10:30 PM
Cotton,thought it was a space ship landing in the 1st pic!:D Like to see some of the internal workings, if no patent pending?:)

03-25-2007, 11:49 PM
Like to see some of the internal workings, if no patent pending?:)

I would like to learn that trick also.

03-26-2007, 09:14 AM
With a funnel inside the timer and battery fit through the trap door and sit in the void area. Wiring for the motor goes through one of the pipe brace through the bottom of the barrel.

04-03-2007, 04:05 PM
sneaky.....I LIKE IT!:o

04-03-2007, 08:40 PM
How did you get the motor mounted inside the larger pipe? That is a wonderful lower unit design. I've also seen guys gut ammo cans in half long ways and cut the same size rectangular hole on the bottom of the barrel. They then weld the 1/2 ammo can(with lid) to the barrel and can access the inside of the barrel through the lid on the can and it stays watertight.

Dale Moser
04-03-2007, 09:37 PM

Had one standin empty, un-staked in Young county for the last 2.5 months, and she was still standing this weekend. Just needs a timer and critter cage.

04-03-2007, 11:41 PM
cwill, I welded a plate on top of the pipe and drilled out the holes to mount the motor.

I was going to seal the bottom but with my luck the bottom would hold water and the top would leak. I filled the motor housing in with foam to discourage wasp.

04-04-2007, 10:26 AM
Cotton you and Dale are like super metal techies......:D awesome ! thanks,to the both of ya!

04-07-2007, 05:05 PM
a buddy and I are building a winch up feeder. will post pics when we get done this next week some time.

the kidd
04-21-2007, 05:57 PM
heres one of my turkey feeder that i made out of a 55 gal drum,,....i still need to add a couple of things to it though that way less critters could get to it....

04-22-2007, 12:48 PM
very nice feeders

04-23-2007, 11:44 AM
I like many others don't have easy access to a welding machine. When I was in North Carolina (hardly any pigs to speak of) I had several different methods to feed and make the corn last longer than just putting it on the ground. These will work if you are close by your lease or hunting spot and don't mind filling them more often.

1. Take three lengths of 8 inch or 10 inch sewer pipe (preferably unused). Cut a 3 foot section of it and put the standard cap on top of it. Make sure to not glue it, but just push it on. This will give you a a good seal to keep water out of the feed, but allow you to refill it with ease. At the other end of the pipes put a 2-3 inch V-cut on one side of the pipe. This will allow a gravity feed, but will only let feed come out in small amounts as the animals eat. Below the pipes mount a piece of plywood with a lip on it so the feed stays in the tray. Mount this flush with the bottom of the pipe. Along the sides of the pipe screw several pieces of 2x4 lumber to them and then attach it to the base. This will keep the pipes verticle. Build a sturdy stand about 2.5 ft off the ground. Make the base big enough to have all three pipes on it and that will give you more room for several animals to eat at the platform. If you place this right the animals will always have their heads away from you making it alot easier to draw without being seen. I have not tested this in an area with alot of pigs, but if you make the platform base with 4x4 posts and sink them in the ground with concrete you should be ok from them.

2. This is very cheap and sounds silly, but it works if you can visit your site often. Fill several 2 or 3 liter coke bottles with corn. Do not put the lids back on. Place them in the area that you are hunting within range and enjoy. This works great with deer. They learn that by spinning it around with their heads or feet that the feed will come out. It is fun to watch :D and the deer get so focused on getting the feed out that they pay less attention to their surroundings and are not near as edgy.

Again both of these are very inexpensive ways to make your feed last longer and pull animals into your hunting area. Some of us don't have the equipment or money to spend on nice feeders. They might seem a little "Ghetto", but it does save alot of money that can be used to purchase new bows, stands, or other goodies!! I am very impressed with the feeders I have seen so far on this thread and would love to try some of them out as well.

the kidd
04-23-2007, 12:58 PM
i have another one that i use for hogs..
get a pvc pipe with lids like mentioned above but also get like a dog tie out chain and put a eye bolt on one of the lids and drill holes on eachside to put in a bolt and tighten and then get a big eye blot to put in the ground and then a swivel and metal wire going to the big and small eye bolt and tighten ...make several holes just big ehough for the feed to come out and then put feed in and spin around in circles and the feed slowly comes out..should be less than 40 dollars..

04-23-2007, 09:37 PM
Try an Outback feeder. They aren't cheap, but you wil NEVER have to buy another one in your life or your son's life if you have one. We bought one and loved it. We now have 24 or so. We fill them once a season and thre is no set up involved. Slide it up into a trailer and move it. All there is to it.