View Full Version : lightweight bow blind
02-13-2007, 11:59 AM
Here is a lightweight, fairly inexpensive permanent bow blind. It has a wooden floor, the floor weighs about 50 pounds. The walls are 3/4 inch foamboard, taped together at seams with aluminum tape. I used burlap for a matte because it was much less expensive than glass sheets. I painted on polyester resin with a paint brush (took two coats and about 5 gallons). All the corners are reinforced with 12 inch wide strips of burlap. I painted with an oil base primer prior to "camo" job. I estimate the total weight to be about 125 pounds and is big enough to accomodate two people. I can share floor layout if anyone is interested.
The blind is hexagon shape for two reasons. The first being that the extra corners add strength to the blind. The second is that the blind can be laid over on it's back and slid into the bed of a full size pick-up.
I added a canopy over the shoot hole to deter water and sunlight. The shoot hole has a 24 x 24 inch cutout having a frame that has shoot-thru netting on it.
I used a frame to position and reinforce the foamboard during lay-up. After lay-up and curing, I removed the internal frame to reduce weight.
I will attach some more photos that better describe assembly.
02-13-2007, 12:08 PM
stand by - All my other pics are too big
02-13-2007, 12:16 PM
02-13-2007, 12:24 PM
02-13-2007, 12:34 PM
You answered alot of my questions. I always wondered if you could get Resin to stick to the foil sides. Looks like it would work. Thanx for the info.
02-13-2007, 12:36 PM
02-13-2007, 12:37 PM
cost is as follows
wood for floor - 30
resin - 160 ($32/gallon)
burlap - 30
hinges/hdw - 25
foamboard - 50
paint - 40
carpet - 10
caulk/screws - 20
total - $365
02-13-2007, 12:38 PM
How many hrs?? It looks awesome.
02-13-2007, 12:49 PM
Are you still feeling the effects of the resin fumes? LOL
That's an awesome idea.
How sturdy are the walls after you took out the temp bracing?
02-13-2007, 01:06 PM
I think I have about 60 hours in it, maybe a little more. Most of my time it seemed, was just doing the little stuff (attaching hinges and door fit-up and stuff). I forgot about the price for the aluminum tape and it's not cheap. It took two rolls at about $8 a roll.
The blind is pretty sturdy especially at the corners. The walls deflect some, but I think it would take quite a blow to damage them.
Liquid nails works really good to seal the edges around the doors. On the entry door I used aluminum tape. On the shoot door, I used a dremel and sanded away the foam about a 1/2 inch deep and filled the edge with liquid nails. Liquid nails worked better than aluminum tape.
I think I got a little dain bramage from smelling that resin.
Thanks for the compliments.
02-13-2007, 01:18 PM
Wes, you might want to darken up the inside too. Either with black paint or black fabric. That and dark clothes would make you invisible inside that thing.
Another idea that popped into my head is a roof vent. I'm sure that thing will be pretty warm in the early season hunts.
I can just see Luke smokin' some deer outta that thing this season!!!!
02-13-2007, 01:55 PM
That dark fabric is an excellent idea. I've been looking at Wal-Mart and some other fabric stores for something on sale. For some reason, solid black is never on sale. I think I'll use fabric instead of paint because I think it will help keep sound from resonating back out the shoot hole.
I hadn't thought about the roof vent. Good idea. Any suggestions on making it water tight?
Luke smoked 2 does last year out of pop-ups. It seems that I don't get to hunt anymore (smily face). But, that's ok I enjoy watching him!
02-13-2007, 02:09 PM
That is cool. How wide were each of the sides?
I was thinking of one but with a pentagon and 4' sides.
02-13-2007, 02:14 PM
What are all the screw heads for on the bottom??
Black landscape cloth would work and be cheap to boot.
02-13-2007, 02:35 PM
Dave, this might help.
B = A x 2
C = A x 1.73
02-13-2007, 04:08 PM
Wes, I was thinking something like this. (http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=E&Product_Code=65561&Category_Code=rv)
Of course it would help to have one that's not opaque and would still keep out the light. I'm sure you'll face this blind into the prevailing winds and if you put the roof vent opposite the shooting hole, you should get a nice cross breeze on those hot days (at least in theory). And on cooler days, you can keep the vent shut to eliminate drafts.
I'm sure you could buy these things at any place that sells cargo trailers (not Blowes or Homo Depot).
02-13-2007, 04:47 PM
That dark fabric is an excellent idea. I've been looking at Wal-Mart and some other fabric stores for something on sale. For some reason, solid black is never on sale.
You could use navy blue or hunter green instead of black. Inside that blind it would probably work just as well.
02-13-2007, 05:17 PM
Dude, that is an awesome job!
02-13-2007, 07:03 PM
Flame-Tamer - The screw heads were to help the burlap/resin adhere to the base. I no longer think that was such a great idea. I later used wood screws through a small washer and screwed them in during the burlap/resin application, and before the resin cured.
Kevin, Thanks. I might be able to use those vents that they put on top of houses. Not the turbans (sp) but the smaller ones with an upset top over a tube. I'll have a bunch of brush piled on top, so the sunlight probably wont get in.
Dave W - The wall sizes vary. They are less than 48". Front to back is 75" (probably 4 inches longer than it needed to be). Laterally, across points, is 5 1/2 '. The pentagon is an excellent idea, The corner at the back would be just about right for an elbow, without wasting much space.
Cull/Innergel - Thanks, good ideas.
02-17-2007, 08:17 PM
very nic ebut i bet that bad boy gets toasty
02-18-2007, 07:26 AM
Dang nice job Wes! And thanks for sharing. Luke is gonna be lay-n-em down next year. :)
02-18-2007, 11:23 AM
Rightwing great job. I have done some large glassing jobs in my past. I have to give you a lot of credit for being able to work around those vapors. I start to sweat as soon as I smell it. Never thought about using burlap before but it surely would cut down on the iching.
I have a few questions to ask.
1) Why did u use the alumimun tape? Does that stick better to the foamboard?
2) You have a large shooting window in the front. Did u think about adding small side windows for viewing? While it would allow more light in, it would give you a wider viewing angle especially during the rut when the bucks rarely stay too long.
3) Did u put a bow hanger inside the shooting house? If so where did you mount it?
4) How did you attach your hinges? Where they into the foamboard? Or did u have studs there?
5) What is the height of the walls?
6) How do you plan to brush it in? Would be great to see the finished product in the wild.
7) What would u do differently if you were to do another one?
02-18-2007, 12:12 PM
Dang nice! I'm gonna have to print this out for future projects. Thanks!
02-18-2007, 12:34 PM
ever thought about making it w/o a floor?
02-18-2007, 07:27 PM
Foot Patrol - Thanks. Those vapors are pretty strong. I built the majority of the blind in the garage because I did'nt want it rained on. I definately had to keep the garage door open!
My primary reason for using aluminum tape was a fear of the resin eating the foam like gasoline in a styrofoam cup. I thought the aluminum tape would make a better barrier than duct tape would. What I didn't realize was, how well the aluminum tape would adhere to the aluminum siding on the foamboard and the added strength it gave the corners. I think it makes the corners much more "structural" than duct tape would have.
I have considered peek holes and may end up cutting some. Like you mentioned above, I'm concerned with the light. I could probably cut narrow horizontal strips and hang rubber mat over them and just lift to peek periodically. But, I just havn't made up my mind on that yet. I will probably have a lot of brush piled on and around and my side viewing may be limited anyway. We usually just use ground blinds for hunting chum.
The only frame inside is a ridge beam in the shape of a "T". The "T" is supported by one vertical at the back and two verticals at the front. The two verticals at the front also act as a support for the mesh frame. The "T" has two purposes. One, it acts as a support during transit. Two, it was suppose to be our bow holder. I have changed my mind on it being a bow holder. I attached a bracket and tried to locate it, but didn't like anything about it. It impaired viewing and "Murphy's Law" says we would have hit our bow on it during draw. I have decided to make a floor bow support. Similar to what you can buy and stick in the ground.
I did not use studs or inserts to attach any hardware. I just drilled holes and backed up with thin pieces of wood. Paint stirrers would work great. Studs or inserts definately would not hurt anything though.
The roof slopes. At the rear it is 5'-8" and slopes up to 5'-11'. I should have used more slope.
I won't take it down to the lease until sometime next month. I really like to brush things in. I think it helps, but mainly, I just like doing it! I'll post pic's.
While I was working on it, I thought of other (smaller) floor designs that I would like to try. But, after completing I think this one is about right. Next time I build one, I won't use latex paint over oil base primer. It didnt stick very well. I should have known better.
02-19-2007, 07:49 AM
Thanks Right Wing. Great job!!! Cant wait for the pictures.
02-19-2007, 07:05 PM
what were all the diff. dimensions how big was each wall
03-02-2007, 08:23 AM
is that thing like a mini sauna come october?
Excellent job. I think you did a fantastic job on the whole thing. Be sure and give us a report on how well it hunts.
04-04-2008, 12:50 PM
Right wing, Can you repost the pics on this.
04-04-2008, 01:53 PM
The pictures aren't coming up for me, but I am planning on making something like this. I would like to see what you have. I have some foil backed foam that I am planning on making something like this real soon. Could you email me or PM me with the pics?
04-04-2008, 05:04 PM
I PM'd him a few weeks ago about getting pics of that blind but haven't heard anything. I assume busy or just out of pocket.
Sounds like a great idea regardless!
04-04-2008, 06:56 PM
Sounds neat, but I don't see any pictures.
04-07-2008, 11:45 AM
Predatorsniper - I applogize for not responding to your PM. Someone ( I can't remember who) e-mailed a few weeks ago wanting pics and I sent them. If it was you, I guess they didn't make it. Sorry!
Hang loose and I'll try to find them and repost.
04-07-2008, 11:57 AM
I guess the photos were removed for server space. I built this in spring of 07'. My son and I hunted out of it last year several times. It actually worked out really well. It was not as hot as I expected. The insulation for the walls and the vent on the roof helped, I think.
04-07-2008, 12:05 PM
What I really like about this design... I don't have to trailer it.
04-07-2008, 04:14 PM
thanks for the repost. I was wanting to do something like what you have.
04-07-2008, 05:38 PM
Great pics, man! I really appreciate it!
BTW...don't sweat it. I get busy, distracted, confused...you name it. :D
04-07-2008, 11:11 PM
I have seen a couple of commercial blinds built like this, but you take the mystique out of being a D-I-Yer. Thank you for your excellent explaination and pics.
04-07-2008, 11:25 PM
FYI - - - I have observed (and studied) the technique that a fab shop at Rayne, LA on I-10 uses. They have a compressed system which sprays the resin as well as the cut fiberglass onto a "form" (welded steel frame/form). The fiberglass comes to them as string, and it feeds into the sprayer, the string is cut into 2" or 2.5" lengths. When the whole form is covered with the resin and fiberglass, they quit spraying. They let it dry, and then they remove the fiberglassed structure from the form. Then they cut holes in the structure for windows and a door. Then they paint it green, and "wala" they have a blind. It is only about 1/8" thick, but it works. The base is just a little wider than the top.
There is also a company in TX which builds a similar blind like Right Wing (this thread), but they also spray the resin and cut fiberglass on the outside, as well as the inside of the blind.
I like the concept of being able to do it myself. Thanks.
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