Q: Why is it so important to not only set your 3rd axis adjustment on the Hogg-It sight, but also to set it at full draw?
A: Leveling your 3rd axis keeps your bow in perfect vertical alignment, giving you pinpoint accuracy when shooting on all different terrain. Leveling your sight in a vise or on a 3rd axis leveling jig might get you pie plate accuracy, but for true pinpoint accuracy the leveling has to be done at full draw. Leveling at full draw takes into account the torque of the bow, which is important. We have taken a sight that has been 3rd axis leveled using a vice or jig, put it on the bow and with our shooting machine the Hooter Shooter can show 2 - 4" discrepancies on a 40 yard uphill shot. Then we leveled the sight, at full draw, and got no discrepancies on an identical shot. 3rd axis leveling, at full draw, is a detail that is often overlooked when setting up a bow. But is obviously important when asking for perfect results on a perfect shot.
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I did my sight by myself. The only part you have to do at full draw is set the 3rd ax when sighting up hill or down hill. I used a rope with weight hung up in a tree. Aimed up at the rope for a true vertical line.
Q: Why is it so important to not only set your 3rd axis adjustment on the Hogg-It sight, but also to set it at full draw?
A: Leveling your 3rd axis keeps your bow in perfect vertical alignment, giving you pinpoint accuracy when shooting on all different terrain. Leveling your sight in a vise or on a 3rd axis leveling jig might get you pie plate accuracy, but for true pinpoint accuracy the leveling has to be done at full draw. Leveling at full draw takes into account the torque of the bow, which is important. We have taken a sight that has been 3rd axis leveled using a vice or jig, put it on the bow and with our shooting machine the Hooter Shooter can show 2 - 4" discrepancies on a 40 yard uphill shot. Then we leveled the sight, at full draw, and got no discrepancies on an identical shot. 3rd axis leveling, at full draw, is a detail that is often overlooked when setting up a bow. But is obviously important when asking for perfect results on a perfect shot.
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I did my sight by myself. The only part you have to do at full draw is set the 3rd ax when sighting up hill or down hill. I used a rope with weight hung up in a tree. Aimed up at the rope for a true vertical line.
You line the wire up with the hanging rope. Aim up at about 45 degrees and put the wire over the rope. Adjust the sight untill when you line the wire up with the hanging rope the level is level. It's in the instruction sheet with the sight. If you got the sight used call them they can e-mail you a pdf instruction book.
Sweet. It's probably in the bottom of the box. I took it out and just slapped it on there and noticed it needed adjusting. I had adjusted it with a long level in a vice, but for some reason I remembered hearing I needed to do it at full draw.
Can somoebody kindly explain the '3d axis'? I just read an article on adjusting it in the NFAA magazine and I'm more confused than before. Here's my understanding (which may be wrong).
1st axis is adjusting the sight to a true vertical if the bow is held slightly canted to the right at full draw. If you shoot with the bow truly up/down, then your sight is parallel to the bowstring- perpendicular to the ground.
The second axis is to adjust the bubble level to be in between the 2 lines when the sight is perpendicular to the ground. If your sight and string are parallel, it should be OK.
The 3d axis is important on uphill and downhill shots, because the bubble level (they say) will be correct when the bow is aimed horizontally (parallel with the ground), but will be off when you aim up or down. Why? and how is this adjusted?
Third axis adjustment allows for level adjustment when bow is at full-draw, which is different than when at rest due to bow torque caused by cable tension and hand placement/ pressure.
So, the issue that 3d axis leveling solves is that a bubble level will not read accurately if not viewed straight-on from the side? If I were to put a 4 foot construction level on a perfectly level horizontal;l metal pipe, it would show me level when it was perfectly on top of the pipe, but if I moved it towards me or away around the outside of the pipe, keeping it parallel to the pipe and in contact, the bubble would move from inside the 2 black lines to one side or the other? Or is I put a level on a horizontal, level railing and then tilt the level towards and away from me, the bubble should move left or right? I have to try that out one of these days.
Thanks again.
.....and some people thought when I explained gap-shooting with a recurve and no sights it was complex.
3rd axis is making your sight and its level a perfect “T”
If we say the ends of the top of the T are A to the left and B to the right. As long as the “T” is flat all is good. But if you raise the top of the “T” and A and B are not aligned then the bubble will run to the high side.
Say your “T” looks like this “T” then the bubble will run to the B side when you raise it.
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