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Howard
10-27-2006, 03:00 PM
This is the way I do my laser nocks! There are many other ways to do it...some include glue and wooden dowl rods, I personally do not!

I picked up the thil lights at Wal-Mart in the fishing section and used a cordless drill, two bits, and about 5 minutes of my time.

You can see these in action on a few of the videos below. They are flawless, unlike the 10 dollar ones I have tried and I can make 6 or so for the price of one of the "others"

I drilled all the way through my nock with a small bit. Any little bit will work! I then found a bit eqaul to the size of the red lip around the light and "wollered" out the nock just a little - maybe 1/8 inch deep or so.

The lights will stay and store inside the nock with no problems. Me-being a tight wad- I dont turn them on untill I think I will be shooting soon. Deer start feeding in, I take my already nocked arrow and slip it off leaving the nock on the string and the arrow in the w.b. rest. I push the light in just a little more and it come on. I then slide my arrow back onto the nock and let er rip when ready. If it all happens too fast and Mr. Big comes in with no time to turn it on, oh well I will not stop to turn it on.

Light shows up very well and will aid in finding arrows with ease! (unless turkeys hauls mail with it:))

Here are a few simple pictures....again you can see them in action in some of the video clips below!

1783

1784

1785

1786

1787

Luck_of_the_Draw
10-27-2006, 03:12 PM
Another pic

Legdog
10-27-2006, 03:13 PM
thanks Howard

This post inspired me to go to Deerslayer's site to check out all his homebrew stuff...

http://www.deerslayer.freewebspace.com/custom2.html

Howard
10-27-2006, 03:30 PM
thanks guys for posting that. I was going to post it but didnt have the link or chart above saved any where.

Slayer knows how to trick out his toys for sure!

innergel
11-01-2006, 03:51 PM
Here's how I do it, the ultra lazy man's way. Dare I say it's even easier than Howards. I tried to drill a few nocks before and I mangled them all to heck.

1. Buy a package of white Gold Tip nocks.
2. Buy Thill lights or equivalent
3. Insert light into nock
4. Insert nock into arrow
5. Done!

Turn them on when you get into your stand and turn them off when you get out. Put a towel over them if they are too bright. They will stay lit for at least 10 hours. Replace when the light burns out.

Willhunt4food
11-01-2006, 07:41 PM
JT good stuff I make the same kind as you but I used the clear green nock with green and red light you dont have to drill the hole on the clear nocks.

Four2
11-06-2006, 05:17 PM
Here's how I do it, the ultra lazy man's way. Dare I say it's even easier than Howards. I tried to drill a few nocks before and I mangled them all to heck.

1. Buy a package of white Gold Tip nocks.
2. Buy Thill lights or equivalent
3. Insert light into nock
4. Insert nock into arrow
5. Done!

Turn them on when you get into your stand and turn them off when you get out. Put a towel over them if they are too bright. They will stay lit for at least 10 hours. Replace when the light burns out.

That's the way I do it as well except the Thill lights don't fit into Easton X-nocks out of the package. My lazy solution is to gently tighten the back of the light into my cordless drill then grip the plastic around the light with 110 grit sandpaper and pull the trigger on the drill. About the time your fingers get hot, the light will now fit into the x-nock.

BIG IRON
11-15-2006, 05:40 PM
I cut the insert part of an old nock to use as the stopper. I also used the twist type thill lite, (assuning that is the only kind). I can insert the lite into the arrow when it is off and give it a little twist to turn it on when ready to shoot, it takes a little tuning to get the light on and the cock feather donw at the same time.

Epack
11-18-2006, 11:47 PM
easy and cheap, sure beats the 7.99 lumenoks

SKLOSS
11-22-2006, 10:04 PM
make sure you get the Thill lights that turn on/off by pushing/pulling the bulb. they make a twist on/off that doesn't work near as well. red and yellow seem to be much brighter as well.

Burnadell
11-23-2006, 03:20 PM
Okay, I made some luminocks based on Deerslayer's instruction...shot a hog last week, and it worked great. BUT, my arrows rattle like they have BB's in them. Anyone have a solution?

SKLOSS
11-23-2006, 09:19 PM
i shot a hog this afternoon and the nock worked great. hell of a idea!!! what a money saver. also, if you use a white gold tip nock you don't really have to drill a hole b/c the whole nock is lit up. IMO

Burnadell
11-23-2006, 09:47 PM
I don't know what brand of nock it is...it is transparent green, and I did not have to drill a hole in it. The Thill light fits up into the nock with only a little enlarging, but the lower end of the Thill light rattles against the inside of my carbon arrow.

Deerslayer, do you have a guarantee on your instructions? J/K :)

bvhunter
12-17-2006, 02:20 PM
Now I see that they are a turn style lite.
I have been making them for about 2 1/2 years now.
bvhunter

Blood Trail
01-07-2008, 03:59 PM
Here's the way I do it. Got this from youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk

Rattler
01-07-2008, 09:43 PM
FYI...if you drill completely through the back end of the nock and shoot it out os some of todays speed bows the nock will shatter.

rossn2
01-10-2008, 10:15 AM
Try using a piece of Aquarium air tubing over the Thill battery to help with the noise. You can cut the tubing the length of the arrow or shorter. It won't add too much weight either...Learned the trick from a fellow TBHr couple of years ago..;)

Tex_Cattleman
01-10-2008, 03:46 PM
I do it very similar to Howard, though I use the old style Golt Tip nock that has a small all-thread screw inside. These already have a hole drilled all the way though. Only thing I have to do is drill the inside of the nock out to the same size as the thill light.

I got "cute" last year during the off season and bought a dozen of these nocks in a transluscent color. I thought, brighter the better, right? WRONG!!! Stick with the solid dark colored ones. This way there is no visible light while your arrow is nocked on the string. Light shows up only from the back view, once the arrow is released.

Those clear nocks nearly cost me my first pope and young buck. At full draw, if the deer look at you, they will immediately see the brightest thing in the woods. I drew on my buck and a spike blew out of there when he saw the light. It was only by the grace of God that the big buck ignored his pesky little buddy. It cost him.

Since then, I have stuck with the blue nocks.

Double L
01-10-2008, 05:31 PM
Trey, I switched to the method of gluing a small piece of dowel rod inside the arrow shaft. That way you don't have to sit there with the light on all the time. When you release the arrow the nock seats and the thill light hits the dowel on turns on. I like this much better than having to remove the nock all the time to turn the light on and off.

jmack
01-10-2008, 06:16 PM
Just take an old nock and cut the end off that goes inside your arrow with a little coping saw. Then add a dab of super glue to the end of your thill light and push her in. Now the end that goes inside the arrow has a perfect fit. Finish your thill nock by your desired method. Then add a dab of superglue to the outside of the end that fits down in the arrow, and push all the way in. All you have to do now is pull on the nock to turn it off, and when you shoot an arrow, the pressure of release will push the nock back in, and turn the light on. Just like magic...

bowtechhunter
01-12-2008, 11:42 PM
where did you find the push pull thill lights I can't find any

Burnadell
01-13-2008, 12:52 AM
where did you find the push pull thill lights I can't find any

Academy carries them...called Rod-N-Bobb's battery refill.

Here is a pic of one:
http://www.rod-n-bobbs.com/index.php?page=prodView&pid=31

bowtechhunter
01-15-2008, 10:24 AM
Thanks Berandel all i could find was the twist kind know i can make some lighted nocks.

Txag96
01-18-2008, 12:00 AM
Interesting take on the sandpaper taking the lip down on the light. I shoot FMJ's and have tried this and mangled a few doing this just to find that I couldn't make it work for a long time. I also tried it with the cut nock on the back end and I had to shave the back of the thill light just to get it to fit into the nock and that broke a few of them also. I might try the dowel and sandpaper route.

tx_dropem
01-18-2008, 02:00 AM
every time i try these they shatter on me :(

Lonestar88
01-20-2008, 06:56 PM
What size drill bit do you need to use?

Lonestar88
01-20-2008, 06:58 PM
Just found it on a earlier thread....sorry

Burnadell
01-21-2008, 12:06 AM
every time i try these they shatter on me :
(

Chris and Lonestar, don't drill a hole in the nock. Use the technique that Luck demonstrates in post #2 above. That technique works for me with out shattering the nocks.

east tx hog hunter
02-04-2008, 11:48 AM
Made one last night and couldnt keep from smiling iT WORKED GREAT. If i would have payed 10.00$ a piece I would not have been smiling!!!!!!!!

Spaceman
02-19-2008, 11:30 AM
doesnt this make the arrow end heavy affecting flight and aim?

east tx hog hunter
02-19-2008, 01:15 PM
Shoots The Same On My Bow.but If Nothing Else Just Sight Your Bow In With Them.i Used Them Sunday To Shoot The Hog In My Avatar And It Really Help Knowing Exactly Were I Hit It Even At Night.

cfortner
02-19-2008, 06:46 PM
I used the cut off knock end to put down the arrow shaft as described above. It and the light added exactly 14 grains to my arrow. I haven't shot any of them yet.

cotnptchbowhntr
02-20-2008, 11:45 AM
i have to say that this is ingenious! I read this yesterday and went to get these last night, and I made believers out of several other customers at Gander Mtn as well. Lumenok will surely go out of business but they deserve to for overcharging on these bad boys!

BaylorCoBowhunter
07-24-2008, 06:45 PM
Does anyone know if the Thill and Rod-N-Bobb's are the same size?

Pirogue
07-28-2008, 07:12 PM
Heres your answer.........
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d72/txpirogue/100_2122.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d72/txpirogue/100_2125.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d72/txpirogue/100_2126.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d72/txpirogue/100_2127.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d72/txpirogue/100_2128.jpg

Guess I need to figure out a way to keep em from slipping on impact.

Bad Habit
08-10-2008, 12:42 AM
nice deal

BaylorCoBowhunter
08-10-2008, 12:50 AM
I picked up some yellow Rod N Bob's today. I had been using the green, but much to my surprise the yellow ones are a LOT brighter. Just FYI.

Pirogue
08-10-2008, 02:04 PM
Put a little super glue around the red ring and shove it in there....after about a min all you have to do is push and pull on the battery piece, the ring is locked in and the whole unit stays in place.

I used some clear/orange nocks and they were super bright!!! the white ones tone it down a bit.

Pigsniper
08-10-2008, 11:58 PM
I just made some the other day out of the yellow lights. I have them in clear/orange knocks and they are nice and bright.
Only thing I have to do with mine is sand down the inside of the nock where the string goes, when I would shoot the bow the tension from the arrow coming off the string would turn off the light.

Anyone else have that problem?? Maybe mine are just loose??

Reaper
08-12-2008, 09:59 AM
Thanks for sharing, will be trying this for sure.

fulldraw_529
08-13-2008, 05:34 PM
Question though...I got the stopper in and the knock drilled out, but when I push in on the thill light with it in the knock to set the stopper where it needs to be, then pull the light back out to turn it off, when I put it all back together the light comes back on, am I supposed to leave the knock out a little ways to keep the light from turning on and shoot it like that?

fulldraw_529
08-13-2008, 08:13 PM
can anyone help?

gonehuntin68
08-13-2008, 08:23 PM
Question though...I got the stopper in and the knock drilled out, but when I push in on the thill light with it in the knock to set the stopper where it needs to be, then pull the light back out to turn it off, when I put it all back together the light comes back on, am I supposed to leave the knock out a little ways to keep the light from turning on and shoot it like that?


Yep, just leave it out enough so the light doesn't come on. By the way did you find them at Academy?

fulldraw_529
08-13-2008, 08:57 PM
well I didn't go to the one in Victoria, I went to the one in Sugarland while I was there and bought the last two red ones they had. They had more but they were package deals with other stuff in it so I didn't get them, but they should have them there in Victoria I would think, they're with the bobbers.

Pigsniper
08-14-2008, 12:02 AM
I got mine from Academy also, there the refills down below the lighted bobbers.

When installing them into the arrow push the nock to turn it on then push it into the arrow, just pull back on the nock and it will turn off, the gap is about as big as the thickness of a credit card.

Also usually when you nock the arrow onto the bow string they will come on, just pull on the arrow a little then it will turn off.

If they dont stay on when you shoot you will have to get some sand paper and sand the inside of the nock a little so it doesnt hang onto the bow string as much.

bowhuntingw
08-14-2008, 04:52 PM
leave about 1/16" gap between the arrow nock and the shaft.

Texastaxi
08-14-2008, 06:58 PM
OK, I've been wanting to get some lighted nocks for a while now. A few months back, I bought a pack of Lumenocks ... what a JOKE! Those dang things wouldn't even light up OUT of an arrow.

When this post got revived, I decided I really needed to try these things. I had previously bought some Thill lights too, but had given 2 of the 3 away for some reason. So, yesterday, I stoped by Academy and picked up 5 more red ones.

I use axis arrows. When I tried to insert the Thill into the nock, for fitment, I noticed that the end would barely go into the open end of the nock and then stop. The nocks seemed kinda thin already, so I didn't want to drill them out anymore. I simply glued the Thill into the nock. It only goes in about half the thickness of the red ring at the top of the Thill. After I got all 6 Thills glued into the nocks, I cut my dowel. Unfortunately the dowel was just a little loose in the shaft. To remedy this, I tore a small piece of paper towel, put it over the open end of the arrow and then pushed the dowel into the towel. It really tightened it up. With the dowel about half its length into the arrow, I tore off all the excess paper towel. Now the dowel fit nice and tight. Then I turned on the Thills and pushed the dowel stopper into the right depth, pulled the nocks back out and glued the dowels in.

I shot one of them 3 times, just a few minutes ago and it lit up PERFECTLY every time. I prefer to leave the nock out just a tad and then let the force of the arrow leaving turn it on.

I'm so excited about these things I'm tempted to go to Academy and buy 24 more lights to do the 2 dozen new FFJ's that I got a few weeks ago! :D

Thanks everyone for bringing this thread back to the top!

KactusKiller
09-23-2008, 10:41 AM
Its getting close to the season and I had to go back and find this thread, so for everyone who needs it ,TTT. Good luck this weekend!

wbhinton
09-24-2008, 08:44 AM
I am gonna make some for me and the wife this week.

Jason Slocum
09-29-2008, 05:34 PM
I have the clear knocks, the bobber lights, and the old knocks for an arrow (for stops). My question is the bobber light free floating between the stop and the knock? So when you shoot the light hits the knock and turns on? Please help. Jason Slocum

BaylorCoBowhunter
09-29-2008, 06:14 PM
Jason,
Yes, at least in mine, the bobber light is free floating. I've heard of guys glueing them in, but it is not necessary.

TexasChuckster
10-03-2008, 04:28 PM
I will make some for my grandsons. Great idea. Looks easy.

Thanks

Country
10-06-2008, 03:24 AM
I have made five of the ones with the dowel rod so far. I used clear nocks and green lights. They have all worked great. Even got the chance to shoot a pig with one.

no bait
10-27-2008, 04:58 PM
thanks for the idea saved$ works good no glue no dowel just insert it and ready.

SirWraithe
10-28-2008, 01:11 AM
..

Tex
10-28-2008, 12:15 PM
Ok so I am a little frugal and the thought of glueing a stopper in made me a little nervous about ruining the arrow if I didn't get it in the right place. I bought 3 lights and took a paper towell and tore off a small section and poked it in the end. This works fine but after each shot I had to stick a wire down my arrow to push the wadding back. I thought there had to be an easier way so I put on my thinking cap.
What I used were foam Ear plugs. Get the ones that you can roll between your fingers and they compress and insert them in the shaft. They will then expand. You can then insert the thill light and knock leaving the small gap. I get multiple shots without having to push them back and if I do you can get the earplugs that have a cord and leave a little out so you can pull them from the end. I haven't weighed them but I would think that it is less weight than a wooden dowel. I have field tested them on the target, 2 hogs and a doe and they work great.

Shadow
10-28-2008, 10:52 PM
I use a second knock and cut it down. Insert "backwards" this allows the battery part to be held snug not to mention a perfect fit for the saft, no glue in the shaft either and then I glue the top of the light to the regular knock. This allows me to only have to worry about pulling it out a little bit to turn it off. When I need to replace the light I replace the knock as well, no big deal.

1FREAK
10-30-2008, 10:05 PM
gotta try this fo sho

Javelin
10-30-2008, 10:14 PM
I used ear plugs thanks to Tex. I could not find a dowel that fit my easton epics well. I bought a pack of winchester ear plugs from Wal mart for like a buck and a quarter. cut the fat end off and slid them down the shaft. So far seems to work great.

Tex
11-06-2008, 06:27 PM
Glad it worked Javelin. I work in construction so I get free ear plugs:).

PS I like your signature. That is my favorite Gary Stewert song.

Tomkat07
11-06-2008, 09:02 PM
doesnt this make the arrow end heavy affecting flight and aim?
Luminok adds 22g to the end of your arrow.
Basically it is made the same way, if you ever looked at one.
They just use some shrink tube on theirs to make it look better.

So to answer, it does add weight.
But it is about the same as the luminok.

Also, since i have seen several people talk about rattling they have not seen what others say to do about it.

The best way is to use a old nok and cut the part that goes in the arrow off and use that on the end of the bobber lights battery.
You may have to sand it down a bit to not get such a tight fit. But it will work as a great stop when glued to the battery.

Go to youtube and search:
Homemade Lighted Nock
You will see a great instructional video on how to do this.

Things needed:
Drill and small bit
bobber light
superglue
2 noks, "one transparent"
Hobby or hack saw or dremel, knife etc "to cut the nok"

1FREAK
11-08-2008, 04:24 PM
tried it and it worked perfect, great idea man.

Shadow
11-08-2008, 05:00 PM
The battery, cut off part of a knock and a drop of glue added 12 grains to my arrows. With I'm at 395 and without I'm at 383.

Blackice
12-09-2008, 10:25 AM
thanks for the knowledge

Swat791
12-10-2008, 02:47 PM
I stopped by Academy and they have some green translucent nocks in a Allen package. The thrill light will fit all the way into the nock without drilling!

I picked some up and 2 Thrill lights as well. I put hot glue on the LED and collar of the LED, put the Thrill light in the nock and pushed it a little to allow the glue to spread at the top of the hole. I slightly moved the nock until it looked centered and let the hot glue set.
I tried to move one of the lights around and pull it out but I ended up pulling the LED out of the battery...so the glue held good.

I just turn them on and leave them on while I am hunting.

BvR
01-10-2009, 09:10 PM
Thanks for the info just made my first one can't wait to try it on a hog. I use the white gold tip nocks and was amazed at how bright it is!

Tomkat07
01-25-2009, 10:03 PM
Yep, but you can use clear colors as well and get some brite color.

Country
02-16-2009, 04:00 AM
Hey I use these on my Maximas and love them was needing to buy some new shafts. Has anyone tried these with Axis shafts? Just wondering if the light would fit in the smaller shaft.

txmasterplumber
02-17-2009, 08:01 PM
That's how there supposed to work. I made some last night using the red see through GT nocks from my arrows. I cut off a short piece of the fromt of the nock for a stop. Then I sanded down the other end of the nock so it would slip freely in the shaft. I glued the light in the tip of the nock with superglue, (only a small drop on the light) Then, glue the cut off piece on the other end of the light (battery end) After they dry, turn the light on, and push into the shaft. When you pull back on the nock, it will shut off the light, in therory, when you shoot, it pushes in on the nock to turn the light on! Works great

eriklane
12-14-2009, 09:21 PM
Well I have to say I'm very frustrated at this point. All you guys having success and I'm failing. I have Thill pull/push lights and carbon express 6075 arrows. The problem seems to be this-how do you get a reliable STOP down in the arrow so the bobber has a firm bottom out point so that the PUSHING of the string can make it light. I took a slice off a nock and it is too loose to be a firm STOP for the bottom of the battery. Glue it in with a glue gun and it's not strong enough...Then, if you get glue in the arrow shaft, now the nock won't fit...Crazy glue doesn't like gaps between the surfaces and if I put the battery in the piece of nock I cut off, its too loose to get a real strong grip, and then i'm still having looseness so the bobber light won't light...Judas, I should just buy Lumenocks..But I did, and it was too small, boss says I need UNIVERSAL INSERTS, which I cannot find..Why is everything so da** hard?

Ok, if I jam a wood dowel in the arrow, it has to be really tight..Then, I think I can work with the light by sanding the nock a bit if needed so it slides in and out, and then crazy glue the thill light to the nock and slide it in...But, I have to make sure the dowel is in the perfect spot or the nock wont work...

eriklane
12-14-2009, 10:28 PM
The bottom line with the lighted nock is this-you don't need to glue it in place to the STOP inside the arrow. You do need to glue the thill LED to the inside of the nock so that when you pull the nock out the light comes out and then you just pull the light to shut it off. The STOP must be firm and not move however, so that the light can then turn on properly when you shoot. The only thing that needs to be glued is the led to the nock. UNLESS however, the STOP doesn't sit tight. THAT is the issue here. What is the best way to get a firm base for the light so that when the nock presses on it at the shot, it lights up the light.

Burnadell
12-14-2009, 10:35 PM
I use this method posted by Luck of the Draw on the previous page and have had no problems with mine. They work.

I believe Breck Nolan, aka Deerslayer, originally designed the method.

eriklane
12-15-2009, 07:29 PM
I did rethink this and did get some wood dowel from the hardware store. The pic/instructions aren't real clear 'drop 2 drops of super glue down the arrow shaft and let dry'. This is really the most important. I do try and let the glue go to the left and right of the dowel so as to stick to the side of the arrow shaft inside. Probably over-analyzed it, but, the gluing of the wood is key. Once that's in, and in the right depth, which is crucial, then its the tricky part of gluing the light to the inside of the nock. I messed one up, but got another to work. Sand off the burrs on the nock so it slides in and out decently, and it's done. Have to be able to get the nock back out and it must be able to slide inside to seat against the wood and thus turn it on...

Double L
12-15-2009, 08:07 PM
I don't glue the Thill light in the nock and I don't sand the nock and mine work fine. You have to be careful removing the resistance from the nock or you might draw someday and the nock will come out of the arrow.

AfterLife
12-16-2009, 02:41 PM
i got all the stuff but never have tried it yet, will post my results

thanks for the other ideas

Burnadell
12-17-2009, 12:30 AM
I did rethink this and did get some wood dowel from the hardware store. The pic/instructions aren't real clear 'drop 2 drops of super glue down the arrow shaft and let dry'. This is really the most important. I do try and let the glue go to the left and right of the dowel so as to stick to the side of the arrow shaft inside. Probably over-analyzed it, but, the gluing of the wood is key. Once that's in, and in the right depth, which is crucial, then its the tricky part of gluing the light to the inside of the nock. I messed one up, but got another to work. Sand off the burrs on the nock so it slides in and out decently, and it's done. Have to be able to get the nock back out and it must be able to slide inside to seat against the wood and thus turn it on...


Correct!



I don't glue the Thill light in the nock and I don't sand the nock and mine work fine. You have to be careful removing the resistance from the nock or you might draw someday and the nock will come out of the arrow.

Larry's got it! Don't worry about gluing the battery/light to the nock.

oktx
12-17-2009, 10:41 AM
The next one I try will be the Po' Nock. They seem the easiest to build.

Pearson1818
08-23-2010, 08:08 PM
I'll have to try. Sore bought is pretty expensive.

Bowhunter004
08-17-2011, 07:46 PM
Where you yall buy your thill lights? I found some on ebay but they wouldnt be much cheaper than buying Nockturnals.

bubba1986
08-18-2011, 01:05 PM
I will be tryin this tonight.... Thanks for the tip.. Can't wait to see it work!

Tex
08-18-2011, 01:23 PM
Where you yall buy your thill lights? I found some on ebay but they wouldnt be much cheaper than buying Nockturnals.

They are just under 4 bucks a piece at Acadamy.

BIG IRON
08-18-2011, 02:11 PM
Where you yall buy your thill lights? I found some on ebay but they wouldnt be much cheaper than buying Nockturnals.

I have 6 on the way from Gander and it was about the price of 3 store bought.

DavisHollow
08-18-2011, 03:36 PM
Frugal is good, but the arrows we use cost $10/pop, the broadheads are $10/pop, and you can buy good lighted nocks for $10/pop. The ones I just bought (forget the brand) stay on for 10 sec and then start blinking until you turn it off via magnetic switch. A thill light costs $4 at Cabelas, so at the most you are lucky to save $6, $24 vs $30. Seems like with all it cost to bowhunt, the extra $6 is not worth saving, just enjoy shooting and not worry about whether the nock will turn on this time or not.

Having said all that, I have more homemade lighted nocks than store-bought. I just think the quality of store-bought is getting better to the point that homemade might not be worth the effort.

dhillis
01-30-2014, 10:44 AM
reviving this thing from the dead. I'm gonna go to academy during lunch to get the lighted thills.

BAPilot2
01-30-2014, 01:01 PM
Thanks for the resurrection!

Some may be as ignorant as I for it did not cross my mind to try and make my own illuminated nocks. I have never used a Lumi-Nock but I may play around with it just for grins. Now I have a new project. It ought to be fun.